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FAQ page
FAQ:
Order Related:
Check the status of an order
Have not received your order after getting a tracking number?
Barrel Questions:
9mm Conversions
.40S&W to .357SIG Conversions
Reloading Issues
Trigger Questions:
3.5# Connectors
How do I get the best Glock trigger (for me)
Striker springs
Misc. Questions:
Guide rod spring slipping over screw tip?
Lone Wolf Slides on a Gen4 Frame?
Does LWD make a 10mm conversion for my .45ACP?
Check the status of an order
On the upper right corner of the screen, click on 'log in' and enter your user ID and password (if you don't remember, then select the 'account retrieval option and lookup by your email address or customer #). Once logged in, click on the 'account' button on the upper right hand corner of the screen and select 'order history.' This will provide a copy of all your orders, which can be viewed by clicking on 'view invoice'. Please note, if your email address is located on the invoice below your address, then you will be notified when the order processes with the shipping information. The invoice will indicate which item(s) are on backorder, if any, and if you search for those items on the website, it will give you a live inventory status with a backordered date if the item is not currently in stock.
Have not received your order after getting a tracking number?
Step 1: Please track the order at the appropriate website (First Class, Priority, Express at www.usps.com and all UPS shipments at www.ups.com). If there is no tracking information available, please proceed to step 2.
Step 2: If there is no tracking information available and it has been 48 hours since you received your shipping notification email, likely your order has not shipped. Our system will send an automatic email when an order processes. It does not know if there are any custom requests that will take additional time before shipping. Please note that orders containing black oxide have a turnaround of 2-6 weeks and those with custom engraving or red dot mounting can take up to 2-4 weeks. Once they actually ship you'll get movement on the tracking number.
9mm Conversions
LWD 9mm conversion barrels will allow you to shoot 9mm ammunition
from your Glock 40 S&W or 357 Sig handgun. These conversion barrels
are easy to use and install the same as any other barrel, simply drop it
in, no gunsmithing or other modifications are required. We do recommend
you use the correct 9mm magazine with these conversion barrels to
guarantee reliable feeding.
About 1% of our 9mm conversion barrels are affected by the poor
performance of low powered 115 grain ammunition causing a Failure To
Eject (FTE). A good example of ammunition that is “most likely to fail”
is Winchester White Box (WWB). This rare failure is too low a percentage
to make an issue, however it is one we are well aware of. The fix to
resolve this issue is quite simple:
- Clean and lube your slide and barrel.
- Shoot 1 mag to 1 box of good quality +P or +P+ ammunition through the barrel.
- Try the FTF ammunition again. If it runs... great! If you experience more failures you will have a couple choices to make:
- Reduce the recoil spring weight to 13 lbs. Cost is about
$25 for stainless steel guide rod and reduced power spring. See stainless guide rods here. See springs here.
- Shoot 124 gr or a better quality 115 gr ammunition
exclusively. The FTF 115 gr ammunition you are currently using is no
longer a valid option.
What causes this problem? Several issues come into play:
- The 40 slide and (40 conversion) barrel are thicker than standard
9mm slides and barrels. This extra thickness equates to more weight. The
combined extra weight taps the energy of the "weak 115 gr ammunition”
to its complete demise. It simply lacks in power and fails to reliably
eject the spent round.
- Every once in awhile a Failure To Feed/Failure To Eject (FTF/FTE)
is caused by a fit issue. We resolve fit issues by pumping +P or +P+
ammunition through the gun. This hot ammunition provides extra pressure
and the pressure will positively align any and all components. Once they
are all aligned there is no longer a fit issue. The FTF/FTE is usually
resolved.
*FYI - Several manufactures are currently producing low powered 115 gr 9mm
loads. This ammunition is also known to produce failures in all
standard model Glock 9mm pistols.
*Please note - To convert any .40 caliber gun to .357 or vise versa, a conversion barrel is not needed. Simply purchase the barrel to the corresponding Glock model.
*Don't forget to purchase the proper magazines for your conversions.
40S&W to .357SIG Conversions
It is recommended that a .357SIG magazines be used for the most reliable feeding.
Does LWD make a 10mm conversion barrel for my .45ACP Glock?
We have written a blog post about this subject, see link here.
3.5 lb Connectors
Everybody seems to want a 3.5lb connector because it is "THE BEST".
The truth of the matter is a 3.5lb connector delivers the lightest
trigger pull BUT it also delivers the longest pull available. A lot of
shooters confuse the 3.5 connector as a mushy system because it has so
far to travel. It is hard for some shooters to grasp this theory because
they are thinking less (3.5lb) is best? Try to think of it this way:
You want to load a 55 gal drum into the bed of your truck.
1 You get a 30 foot plank and roll the barrel along effortlessly but it
takes a long time to get the barrel in the truck. (3.5lb connector)
2 You get a 15 foot plank and roll the barrel along. This requires more
effort but it doesn't take much time to get there. (5lb connector)
3 You get a 5 foot plank and roll the barrel along. Man I noticed the
effort here but the barrel was instantly in the truck! (8lb connector)
How do I get the best Glock trigger
LWD-342 - Lone Wolf 3.5 connector
LWD-UTS - Lone Wolf Ultimate Trigger Stop
LWD-63 - Lone Wolf Lightweight, Mid-weight, and Factory Weight striker spring
Polish the trigger bar "birds head" flat and edge where it contacts the
connector, also the raised angled edge where it contacts the firing pin
safety and the "kick up" edge where it engages the striker leg. Polish
the leading edge of the firing pin safety and the face. Polish the face
of the striker leg.
Squirt a little "Flitz" between all bearing surfaces of the trigger
system. (everything you polished) Keep it there for a few hundred rounds
then clean all the parts and check the bearing surfaces. They should be
lapped in completely. If so, replace the Flitz with a small amount of
quality grease or oil. If not, add a little more Flits and check it
again in a couple hundred rounds.
Special note - You can use this recipe with any connector, 3.5/5/8. Try
them all and pick the one best suited to your style shooting.
FYI - If you have a Glock that has a couple thousand rounds through it, your trigger is already lapped in. If you replace the trigger bar or
connector in this gun, I guarantee it will feel terrible. Any part that
is replaced into a lapped system needs to be lapped in itself before a
reliable evaluation can be made.
Striker springs
There are 3 striker springs offered. The standard factory issue striker spring is 5 lbs.
This "reduced power" spring will provide a smoother/easier trigger pull.
It should be noted that the 4 lb spring can cause misfires so if it is
used, you MUST prove its reliability and shoot several hundred rounds
without incidence. The combination of this spring with a 6# trigger
spring can possibly cause trigger reset/safety engaging issues. If this
happens you'll need to swap back to either a 5# trigger spring or firing
pin spring. See striker springs here.
Glock factory and aftermarket manufactures offer a 6 lb striker spring. This "increased power" spring will provide additional inertia to reliably fire hard primers commonly used with military machine gun ammunition.
Reloading Issues
Remove the barrel from the slide. Drop a factory round into the
chamber. If the factory round fits slightly lower than the top of the
barrel hood you are looking good to go. If the factory round does not
sit slightly below the top of the barrel hood you will need to return
the barrel to LWD and we will fix it right away.
The problem is most likely caused by an expanded or swelled case head
that has not been fully resized. Ammunition that is fired from an
original Glock factory barrel produces (very) expanded case heads. This
expansion occurs because of the large chamber used in Glock factory
barrels. Many reloaders think they are full length resizing their brass
but this simply is not true. The sizer die has a beveled area located at
the entrance of the die mouth. This beveled area helps guide the
straight walled cartridge into the die. The case rim is held with a
shell holder. The area of the cartridge that is between this beveled
area and the shell holder never gets resized completely.
If you drop your reload into a LWD barrel, and the case head (rim) sits
above the barrel hood this is a good indication your brass is bulged and
not resized correctly.
Here is 2 ways to fix this problem:
- Run your loads through a case gauge before shooting. Many reloaders
currently use Dillon or Midway stainless case gauges. However, these
manufactures are known to have liberal tolerances. If your Dillon or
Midway case gauge works with the LWD chamber, you are good to go. If not,
we recommend you use the EGW case gauge. The EGW is known to run
tighter tolerances. Once the reload is fired from the LWD barrel, you
should not have a feed problem again.
- You can return your barrel to Lone Wolf and include 4 or 5 dummy
rounds of your reloads (no powder or primer) and we will open up the
chamber to accommodate your loaded round.
*If you are reloading 40 S&W or 10mm, we recommend you use the Redding GRX push through die to remove 100% of the case budge.
If you'd like to have your barrel reamed to your reloads we charge $30 (includes return shipping)
Send barrels with detailed note and contact info to:
Lone Wolf Distributors
C/O Armory Dept
106 Shannon Lane
Priest River, ID 83856
Guide rod spring slipping over screw tip
The issue is with the recoil spring, not the guide rod or screw tip. We contacted ISMI regarding the spring failures (slipping over the screw tip). This is caused buy an oversized ID of the spring. The OD is within spec, the ID is off by .05 or more. ISMI has no plans at this time to resolve the issue.
Currently LWD-GRA1722's have incorporated our own spring which is sized properly and does not require a washer.
When we assemble the guide rods here at LWD we test the assemblies to see if the spring will slip over the screw tip. We actually catch most failures at this time however it is evident (now) others could fail given time. The fix is to simply install a retainer washer.
Lone Wolf Slides on a Gen4 Frame?
Our slides will fit a Gen4 frame, with a cosmetic gap. See this blog post for more information.
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